The Eighth Continent: Chapter 2
The Snares/Tini Heke
The Snares jut resolutely out of the Southern Ocean some 200 km south of the South Island, hunks of residual granite long left behind by Gondwana. The islands are a refuge for many thousands of seabirds, with no less than 10 species of albatross being recorded seen at the islands.
As the sunset we slipped by Port Adventure on the eastern side of Stewart Island. The sea rolled and rumpled during the night, a strange sensation if you are not used to sleeping at sea. Weary eyed I stepped out on deck and was confronted by a brisk wind rising from the dusky sea. In the distance the shape of Tini Heke started to materialise out of the darkness. As the cliffs loomed larger the sea started to come alive, the sky filled by the wings of seabirds.
Access to Tini Heke is restricted by the Department of Conservation, as the island remains one of the few places in New Zealand where there is minimal human impact. Instead of landing we would cruise on the ‘zodiaks’, small inflatable boats that are quite adept, with the right driver, at exploring all the nooks and crannies of an island. As we skimmed over the water we passed a flotilla of feeding Snares Crested Penguins. Behind them on Broughton Island we could see collections of penguins gingerly trying to make their way to and fro from the sea.
Swirling clouds of Sooty Shearwaters circled above us, whilst more still were collected in a big raft next to us.
Moving onward we passed masses of bull kelp that clung to the rugged coastline, waving in the water like golden strands of hair. The cliffs were dotted with nesting Bullers Albatross, and above them the trees rustled with forest birds, including the elusive Snares Island Tomtit. Punctuating the granite cliffs were a multitude of mysterious caves and caverns, ripe for exploration.
As we slid past Station Point a DOC hut came in to view and I pondered whether this would mean I could ‘bag’ it. After an inspection of the bay by the hut we turned back towards the ship, it was lunchtime. There was a certain art to trying to take photos as the boat bounces along on top of the waves. But one could hardly not try, subjects abounded as the coast hummed with life.
Back on board the ship we upped anchor and began to make our way slowly southward away from Tine Heke. The captain took the ship close to the shore, past Alert Stack and then on to the Western Chain. The chain is a collection of sturdy granite columns, holding steadfast against the rough onslaught of the sea.
When we finally left the Western Chain behind there was nothing but open ocean for 250km until the Auckland Islands/Motu Maha. I was left contemplating two things: what adventure would the Auckland Islands bring? and was it smart to have just eaten a big lunch?
